The 35th IFSCC Congress was held from September 15–18, 2025, in the picturesque coastal city of Cannes, France, bringing together top experts and industry leaders from the global cosmetics science community. As the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, the IFSCC holds unparalleled authority and influence in the field of cosmetic science worldwide. Each congress serves as a key platform for innovation and exchange, often hailed as the "Nobel Prize" of the cosmetics industry.

  At this congress, Dieckmann presented two major ceramide research achievements: 1. Ultra-long-chain Biomimetic Golden Ceramide EOP; 2. Plant-derived Prinsepia Ceramide NP.

  In response to global skin health challenges, Dieckmann has consistently pursued a philosophy of promoting skin's self-regulatory repair—prioritizing the use of endogenous skin components to maintain health in a safe, gentle, and effective manner that skin naturally prefers. For this reason, Dikeman has focused on globally innovative research centered around "skin-selected" ceramides.

Part 01

  Biomimetic Golden Ceramide EOP: Beyond Skin Barrier Repair

  Historically, ceramide EOP—a "protein-linking" ceramide—has remained a mysterious and elusive compound. As a key contributor to the efficacy of multi-ceramide systems, its industrial production was previously unattainable, preventing widespread consumer benefit.

  Dieckmann, based on carbon chain abundance profiles of ceramides in skin, pioneered the development of 46-carbon ceramide EOP (Patent No.: ZL 2022 1 1238109.X). For the first time, it achieved large-scale production using a green preparation process, solved cost and solubility challenges, explored the redness-relief efficacy of ceramide EOP, compared its efficacy with traditional ceramide NP, and verified its unique protein-bonding properties and efficacy via AI technology. This research provides new scientific evidence and formulation options for high-end skincare.

Key Findings:

 1   High Safety: No cytotoxicity at concentrations ≤1 mM; promotes HaCaT cell proliferation.

 2   Significant Anti-Inflammatory Effect: At 1 mM, IL-6 inhibition reached 97.19%, better than traditional ceramide NP.

 3   Enhanced Moisturization: Concentration-dependent upregulation of AQP3 expression; at 1.6 mM, a 1.47-time increase, better than traditional ceramide NP.

 4   Improved Skin Elasticity: Concentration-dependent inhibition of elastase activity; at 1 mM, inhibition rate reached 25.37%, better than traditional ceramide NP.

 5   Good Penetration: Raman spectroscopy on human skin showed gradual penetration into the stratum corneum, with 7.19% penetration after 4 hours. Maximum penetration depth increased over time (0.5 h: 15 μm → 4 h: 60 μm).

Application Trend: Although EOP, as an ultra-long-chain ceramide, demonstrates superior efficacy compared to traditional ceramide NP, the future trend in ceramide-based skincare lies in a combination approach: "protein-bonding type" + "lipid-filling type" + green natural sources.

Part 02
  Prinsepia Utilis Ceramide NP: A New Ceramide with Soothing, Immunomodulatory & Antioxidant

  As a "lipid-filling" ceramide NP, it has been protecting skin health for over 20 years since its commercialization—a proven skin barrier ingredient. However, traditional ceramide NP raw materials are mostly petrochemical-derived, structurally limited, and functionally restricted to barrier repair, falling short of contemporary consumer and skin needs.

  To meet green consumer demand, advanced barrier-plus functionality, and the diversity requirements of skin ceramides, Dieckmann developed a multi-component composite ceramide NP using oil from the Chinese endemic plant Prinsepia utilis Royle. This product preserves the "biomimetic golden ratio" of fatty acids found in natural Prinsepia oil and exhibits multiple bioactivities including soothing, immunomodulation, and antioxidant effects. Prinsepia ceramide NP meets the market demand for "green, sustainable, multifunctional" active skincare ingredients. It not only advances ceramide science but also provides a technical paradigm for developing differentiated functional ingredients from regionally distinctive Chinese botanical resources.

Key Findings:

1. Excellent Anti-Inflammatory & Soothing Effects: Inhibited IL-6 expression by 63.72% (16 mg/L) and TRPV1 expression by 50.53% (4 mg/L), soothing sensitive skin through both inflammatory and neurosensory pathways.

2. Strong Antioxidant Capacity: Increased CAT activity by 187.5% (125 ppm) and GSH activity by 35.45% (125 mg/L), effectively scavenging free radicals and preventing oxidative damage.

3. First-Discovered Immunomodulatory Function: Upregulated human β-defensin 2 expression by 82.78% (62.5 mg/L), enhancing skin innate immunity and regulating microecological balance—filling a scientific gap in ceramide research related to immune barrier function.

4. Good Skin Penetration: Raman spectroscopy on human skin showed an 8.23% penetration rate after 4 hours, with a maximum depth of 70 μm, effectively delivering the active to the viable epidermis.

5. Confirmed In Vivo Efficacy: After 14 days of use, facial redness area decreased by 48.64%, and epidermal temperature dropped by 5.77%, confirming significant soothing and cooling effects.

Application Trend: Undoubtedly, the future direction for "lipid-filling" ceramide NP is the next generation of plant-based ceramide NP—representing both green development and meeting the diverse ceramide needs of skin, while fulfilling consumer demands for advanced barrier-plus skincare.

At the IFSCC exhibition booth, Dikeman Biotech showcased more innovative ceramide products and active ingredient delivery technologies to a global audience, including China's first filed ceramide EOS (filing no.: 国妆原备字20250067), offering diverse skincare solutions for different skin types, all aligned with Dikeman's philosophy of promoting skin self-regulatory repair through ceramides.

This significant presentation at IFSCC marks the first time Dikeman Biotech, representing China's innovative ceramide scientific strength, has made a brilliant debut on the world stage. It fully demonstrates China's growing global influence and exceptional innovation capability in cosmetics R&D, highlighting major breakthroughs and future potential in the industry.